In the 1930s, the glamour and extravagance of the twenties gave way, particularly in America, to increasing economic hardship and to the Depression. This had a number of different effects on the jewelry trade. On the one hand, people were less able to afford expensive jewelry, and so the costume jewelry market was comparatively thriving, [...]
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In sharp contrast with this return to safe forms of design were the avant-garde contemporary art movements, known as Dadaism and Surrealism. These movements had a considerable impact on the world of jewelry. Their ideas were embraced by designers such as Chanel’s fashion rival, Schiaparelli. In addition a number of the Dadaist and Surrealist artists [...]
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The most sophisticated and chic Art Deco jewelry of the period was made in France, using combinations of materials such as coral and jade, and Japanese-inspired black enamel and marcasite. The most outstanding of the French artist-jewelers included Georges Fouquet, Raymond Templier, Gerard Sandoz, Jean Despres and Jean Dunand. There were also a number of [...]
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Austria and the Wiener Werkstätte
In Austria, the search for a new style at the beginning of the century was led by Josef Hoffman and key members of the Succession group, founded in 1897. The main objective of this group of Viennese artists and designers was to improve the status of the decorative arts. Members of [...]
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Art Nouveau jewelry had its origins in the work of French goldsmiths, whose creations were the inspiration for other European craftsmen and women. Most influential among the French artist-jewelers was the glass-maker Rene Lalique. He had a profound impact throughout Europe and America, starting when he opened a shop in Paris in 1885. He showed [...]
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Whereas some costume jewellers of the late 20th century are happy to exploit artificial materials to create a contrived and sophisticated look, the dawn of a growing awareness of the value of natural products — like wood, paper and leather – means that strong references to all that is natural are now influential too.
Inseparable from [...]
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Flowers make ideal subjects for clay jewelry. Their delicate and fragile structure can, with a little practice, be fashioned into delicate pieces to be fitted onto brooch mounts or on a smaller scale onto ear-ring or ring mounts. Make them to match fashion’s romantic mood of the moment and to complement your prettiest clothes.
The rose [...]
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Is an art in and of itself. The right pieces are a terrific fashion investment and will live in your wardrobe forever. Cheap and glitzy or real and elegant, the right piece can pull together your entire look.
Golden oldies, fabulous fakes can be inexpensive and just plain great! Big, bold pins, wild, dangling earrings, colorful [...]
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Spacers
Shell jewelry often looks better when the shells are separated by spacers, which can be turned ivory, wooden beads, nuts or seeds, or mother-of-pearl.
Pieces of mother-of-pearl (see below) can be turned on a lathe or made by cutting oblongs of pearl shell 2.5cm (lin) long by 6mm (tin) wide.
Make up two square wooden boards, about [...]
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The fascinating variety of shells, and their different colours, shapes and textures, make an ideal cheap material for jewelry pieces. As with pebble polishing, there are various levels of involvement; you may just wish to use the shells you have already collected or you may want to clean, polish and colour them or change their [...]
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