Jewelry Lovers

Jewellery made to symbolise or commemorate a person or event rather than simply to adorn is of historical interest and is often comparatively cheap.

Most early jewellery - and many pieces produced right up to the 20th century — served more than merely decorative purposes, embodying some theme, device or message in its design. Such jewellery tends to be rather sombre, which keeps prices down. As a result, new collectors Can start to explore at relatively low cost a field in which there is a wide range of quality and design, and often great human interest too.

Love Tokens

Posy rings, engraved with amatory inscriptions and presented at weddings or betrothals, were popular from the late Middle Ages — at least among those who were rich enough to afford them. Early examples are rare, and even 17th-century examples of simple design can fetch between £200 and £800 at auction.

Gimmal rings were made as far back as the mid- r6th century. The ring’s shank was split lengthwise and invisibly joined so that it could be divided to reveal an engraved message or symbol on the inside face. Silver or gold examples from the r8th century without an inscription can sell for only £150-£200.

Some rings from the early Toth century copy the French custom of arranging stones to spell out a word such as ‘REGARD’ (ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby, diamond) or ‘DEAREST’ (with sapphire and topaz for S and T). In good condition they sell at auction for about £400. More elaborate Regency period brooches and pendants can change hands for several thousand pounds.

Memento Mori

Reminders of death — memento mori — were first embodied in jewellery in the mid- 17th century. Pieces were made in gold and enamel, engraved and modelled with symbols of death. An enamelled ring with a skull and crossbones motif and a simple inscription such as ‘in God we trust’ can fetch around £1500. Grander pieces with more complex designs mounted with a skull are rare and fetch prices in the region of £3000-£4000.

Slides worn at the neck on a ribbon were made mainly in the latter half of the 17th century, and represent the transition from memento mori to mourning jewellery. They consist of a compartment enclosing a plait of woven hair under rock crystal, sometimes with an enamelled skull or skeleton motif and applied wire decoration. Although macabre, the startling imagery of such pieces fascinates many collectors, and a slide in good condition with a complex design may fetch £4oo-£800.

Mourning Jewellery

A typical noth-century mourning ring is a gold band (not always hallmarked) with a black enamel surround and a legend raised in gold, normally reading ‘in memory of’. Engraved on the inside rim is the deceased’s name, and the date and sometimes cause of death. Rings of this type are still relatively inexpensive, fetching from about £8o for a basic example, up to £5 00 for a more elaborate one. But prices go much higher if it is a well-known person who is commemorated.

Slightly rarer are rings in white enamel, worn when young or unmarried people died. Rings combining black and white were worn if a parent and child had died at about the same time. These fetch rather more than black enamel rings. The better-quality mourning rings of the 18th century are thinner than later versions, the shank being about 1/8 in (3 mm) wide, with a milled border. These sell an auction for about £200-£400. Signet-style mourning rings were also popular from the Regency period. Values vary greatly but gold and enamel example may fetch £2004500. Jewellery containing plaited hair of the deceased dates from the mid-17th century onwards. Rings from the 20th century may have woven hair inset around the shank, often fastened with an applied cartouche. Most mourning brooches of the late 20th century consist of a locket containing a lock or plait of hair under a thin cover of rock crystal or glass. The surround is usually Neoclassical in style, with scroll decoration against the traditional black enamel field, but some rings are decorated with pearls or diamonds. Prices vary according to the quality of the gems, but generally they sell for around £200. However, gilt-mounted examples can often be picked up at auction for as little as £50-£80.

By the 1860s jewellery made from hair was being mass-produced. It fetches low prices today — often less than £100— owing to the modern distaste for human hair. But such pieces can make a good start to a collection.

Images of Death

During the latter half of the 18th century, lozenge-shaped rings, brooches and pendants were made, enclosing a sepia miniature. This depicted mourning motifs such as muses standing by a sepulchre with a willow tree in the background, or doves representing the Holy Spirit. Decoration was added with gold wire, seed pearls and human hair, set under faceted or plain rock crystal.

A particularly popular motif was the coiled serpent with its tail in its mouth, signifying eternity. Another was the weeping eye, which was painted on ivory and often surrounded with pearls representing tears. Such pieces fetch between £200 and £400. Like other types of mourning jewellery they have survived in large numbers because they were treasured for their sentimental value.

Jet Jewellery

Apart from hair, the most common material used for mourning jewellery in the Victorian era was jet, an extremely hard form of coal. Jet jewellery is now increasing in value, and elaborate necklaces in high Victorian taste change hands at auction for around £400. However, bar brooches can still be found for about £no and can make a good start for the novice collector. But beware of imitations. Black glass, often misleadingly called ‘French jet‘, can be distinguished by its cooler touch and the presence of air bubbles. Vulcanite, a type of hard rubber used to simulate jet, looks duller and may show a slightly brown tint.

Heraldic and Masonic Items

Signet rings, fobs and desk seals were often decorated with heraldic devices. Good loth- century hardstone signet rings, set perhaps with agate, sardonyx or the less common lapis lazuli, are increasing in value and may now sell at auction for around £150-£400.

Armorial fob seals, worn hanging from a watch chain, were popular from the mid-17th century onwards, when many were produced in steel or gunmetal. Late 18th and early noth-century examples are generally trumpet- shaped, set with an oval hardstone such as agate, and mounted in gold. They were gradually made heavier in design, with complex chased and engraved mounts. A standard 19th-century armorial fob may sell at auction for £300-£400, but it will make much more if the coat of arms shows a royal connection.

Large numbers of badges, watch fobs and medallions were produced for the Masonic order, largely in the early part of the 20th century. They show Masonic symbols such as the all-seeing eye, dividers and set square, skull and crossbones, and pyramid. Others may bear the coat of arms or motto of a lodge member, either engraved or in enamel. Such pieces are usually mounted in gold and silver, and sometimes jewelled. Prices are relatively low because they are common and have few collectors, but n8th-century silver examples can be worth £200-£400.

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