Jewelry Lovers

Brooches of the Twentieth Century

Platinum became a popular jewellery material in the early 1900s. The Edwardian used its pale colour to offset delicate shapes and the light hues of diamonds, pearls, peridots and aquamarines. In the early 1920s Cartier set jewellery with carved coloured gems to create a multicoloured effect often described as ‘fruit salad’. These popular pieces generally sell for more than £5000 today.

The alternative but equally strong Art Deco style of the day emphasised black and white and bold abstract or geometric designs. Brooches with streamlined shapes that symbolised speed — including luxury liners, poison. On average they fetch £300-£500. A wide variety of other ring shapes were made in the 19th century, including the marquise (oval) cluster and the up-finger ring, on which most of the stones are set up and down the finger rather than across. Today, these sell for anywhere between £200 and £20,000, depending on the gems used. The Victorians also made expanding rings for women with finger joints swollen by arthritis; they are much cheaper today than modem versions.

Among the most commonly seen earrings from the beginning of the loth century are ‘long drops of hardstone or carved coral, made for pierced ears. These were produced well into the century, although later drops are usually a little shorter, and are lighter and easier to wear. Fringe terminals also date from the mid- 19th century and have flexible spikes hanging from a panel above. Many examples were made with geometric designs that were very advanced for the time, but these are now quite rare and therefore expensive. Most gold Victorian earrings fetch around £300-£400, while silver examples sell for £ 100-£150.

Towards the end of the century the fashion changed from pierced to screw fittings. These in turn gave way in the 1920S to ear clips, which remained popular until the 1960s, when piercing of ears became common again.

Men‘ s Jewelry

Victorian men’s jewels were mainly confined to useful pieces — pocket watches and chains, fob seals, buttons, signet rings, cuff links and stick (or tie) pins. In the early 20th century, larger diamond rings and bracelets, chains and medallions were fashionable for a time, and they returned to fashion during the 1960s. Now, however, many men restrict themselves to a wristwatch, cuff links and stick pin. Although these are mainly bought to wear,

They are also highly collectable. Boxed dress sets of cuff links, shirt studs and buttons in gold and mother-of-pearl fetch £150-£200. Good-quality Victorian men’s gold signet rings are also popular and sell for £300-£800.

Costume Jewellery

From the 192 os, plastics and other unconventional materials such as chrome were used to create jewellery beautiful in its own right-not just an imitation of expensive gems and gold. Many firms became famous for their costume jewellery, notably Trifari, Schiaparelli, Dior, Chanel, Hobe, Eisenberg and Joseff. Such pieces are avidly collected today, and prices range from just £20-£30 up to £600-£800.

The Second World War halted the use of base metal for costume jewellery and many of the moulds were destroyed to help the war effort. American costume jewellery produced between 0942 and 1947 is therefore all madeof silver, but later pieces revert to cheaper base metal. Silver jewellery of the time is more popular today as it typifies the period and can be more easily repaired. On average a good^,quality brooch will fetch £300-£500.

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