Because this was designed for a child, it’s only about 14 inches long. Feel free to add additional repetitions of the primary pattern (1 bone tube, 3 heishe disks) to lengthen it. Each repetition is about 1X inches. If you want to lengthen it in smaller increments, add heishe disks between the bone beads or near the clasp. Just make sure to keep the design symmetrical. Use a bead board if you need to.

Tools and Materials

• Wire cutters
• Flat-nose pliers
• Crimp pliers
• 18 inches of nylon coated stainless steel beading wire, 0.12 diameter
• 42 (roughly 3′4 inches) 5mm heishe disk beads, shell
• 10 25mm carved tube beads, simulated bone, off-white
• 1 bear pendant
• 2 antiqued metal beads 2 2×2mm crimp beads 1 barrel clasp

1 Slide a crimp bead onto your beading wire. Follow it with the loop from one piece of your barrel clasp. Rethread the wire through the crimp bead, making loop with the wire that holds the loop on your clasp. Using your crimp pliers, crimp the bead in place.

2 Slide on one antiqued bead. Tuck the end of the beading wire (below the crimp) into the antiqued bead.

3 String 5 heishe disks onto your beading wire.

4 Follow it with a bone tube and 3 heishe disks.

5 Repeat Step 4 four more times for a total of five. This brings you to the center point of your necklace.

6 Slide on your bear pendant. Follow the pendant with 3 heishe disks.

7 Add 1 bone tube and 3 heishe disks. Repeat the 1 bone tube, 3 heishe disks pattern four times for a total of 5 times.

8 Add 2 more heishe disks and an antiqued bead to finish your stringing.

9 Slide a crimp bead on the beading wire. Follow it with the remaining side of your barrel clasp. Rethread the beading wire though the crimp bead. Hold the crimp bead gently with your crimp pliers. Using your other hand and your flat-nose pliers, pull the wire taut to take up any slack in your necklace. Then crimp your bead into place. Thread the end wire down through the first bead on your strand. Using your wire cutters, cut off any excess wire under your first bead.

Tools and Materials

• Scissors
• Corsage pin
• 1 card size 2 nylon thread with attached needle
• 1 large bead (about 20mm)
• 2 medium beads (about 15mm), dark brown semi-transparent
• 1 small (6-8mm) transparent light brown round bead
• Approximately 400 clear seed beads, size 8
• Approximately 30 bugle beads, metallic brown
• 8 sets 2 each of 8mm glass and/or stone beads in coordinating colors
• Approximately 15 3-4mm faceted Czech crystals in coordinating colors
• Glue

1 To make the fringe strand, thread on you choice of seed beads, bugles, and other beads (such as Czech crystals) onto the nylon thread. Make a strand approximately 3 inches long. Push the strand of beads all the way down so they’re approximately 3 inches from the end of the card of thread.

Make sure the last bead you string on your strand of fringe is a seed bead. It serves to anchor the beads in the strand, like sort of the flat end of a head pin for the fringe.

2 Slide the last bead up the thread slightly and thread the needle back through the other beads in the strand. You should finish with the string coming out the same bead you started stringing through. Pull the thread so that the strand has no gaps between the beads. Take a look Figure 11-la to see what your fringe should look like.

3 Tie an overhand knot close to the first bead on the strand and repeat to
add as many fringes as you like. Tie a knot in between each piece you
add. (I made five pieces.) Vary the length slightly to create additional visual interest in the piece. I recommend that you keep the length on the tassels between 3 and 4¹A inches.

4 Gather your fringe together and tie a number of overhand knots in the collective threads. Dab a little glue on the knot.

5 Next, slip on your large bead and slide it down so it covers your knot at the top of your fringe. This is tassel of your necklace. Take a look at Figure 11-1c.

6 Slip the smaller bead onto the thread. Add a few inches of spacer beads (such as seed and bugle beads). I created a pattern of sorts by adding 10 seeds beads, a tube bead, and then 10 more seed beads.

7 Next add one medium bead and continue to add 24 inches of beads in your choice of designs. I recommend that you keep your design symmetrical, or the same on both sides of the necklace.

One way to balance the symmetry of the design with the ease of a bead board it to layout just your medium beads on the board. Choose a number of seed beads to string between the medium beads. Then start counting. String 10 seed beads, and then string the next medium bead on the board. Repeat. Remember that you are working from the tassel (in the bottom center of your necklace), going around the length of the necklace, and ending back at the tassel.

8 After you’ve created approximately 24 inches (not including the tassel) of strung beads, slip your needle down through the small bead resting on top of the tassel.

9 Make an overhand knot and use the corsage pin inserted through the knot to push the knot up close to the large bead. Make another knot and dab glue on the knot.

Slip the needle down through the large bead and trim off the excess nylon.

40s-Inspired Garnet Hat Pin

In the 40s, hats were all the rage. A lady wasn’t properly dressed without one. So it’s no surprise that people wanted to accessorize with this must- have accessory. Create a 40s feel with this hat pin. If you don’t have an occasion to wear a hat, it makes a beautiful lapel pin as well. Take a look at the finished piece in Figure 11-4.

Tools and Materials

• Crimp pliers (you could use flat-nose pliers if you prefer)
• 2 12mm topaz-colored Czech Fire Polished Crystals
• 1 gold-filled 3×2mm crimp bead
• 1 garnet vermeil bead
• 1 5-inch gold-colored stick pin
• 1 gold-colored clutch (special finding for the bottom of a stick pin)

1. Slide the beads on the stick pin in this order: 1 topaz crystal, the garnet vermeil bead, 1 topaz crystal.

2. Slide the crimp bead onto the stick pin. Add the clutch to keep from poking yourself. (Maybe it’s just me, but I’m bound to draw blood without this step.) Turn the stickpin upside down so that all the beads are stacked tightly without any spaces between them.

3. Using your pliers, smash the crimp bead around the stick pin to hold the beads in place. Turn the pin right side up and enjoy your beautiful new heirloom.

The beads can spin around on this pin. If you’d prefer them to stay in place, add a dab of Hypo-cement to each bead.

Since the 1950s, the charm bracelet’s made a lasting impact on the American scene. While this decade didn’t see the first charm bracelets in history, it became the must-have item for many women, teenagers, and little girls. Pair that trend with the glamour of Hollywood and the celebrity of the Rat Pack, and you pay homage to an unforgettable decade with this charm bracelet.

Tools and Materials

Flat-nose pliers

Round-nose pliers

1 cast pewter purse charm, gold-finished

1cast pewter musical note charm, pewter-finished

1 cast pewter heart charm, gold-finished

1 cast pewter martini charm, pewter-finished

1 cast pewter high-heeled shoe charm, gold-finished

5′Z inches link chain, silver-colored

2 5mm split jump rings, silver-colored 3 5mm split jump rings, gold-colored 2 2-inch eyepins, gold-colored

2 5mm pressed-glass crystals, AB 1 spring ring clasp, silver-colored

1. Slide 1 crystal onto 1 eyepin. Begin to make an eye loop with your flat-nose and round-nose pliers, but before you finish the eye loop, connect it to one end of the silver chain.

2. Repeat Step 1 with the other crystal, the other eyepin, and the other end of the chain.

3. Gently open 1 of one eyepins (an end not connected to the chain) and slip on the springring clasp. Reclose the eyepin. You’ll use the springring clasp and the eyepin as the clasp for the bracelet.

4. Lay out the full length of the bracelet. (It’s roughly 7% inches.) Lay your charms out next to it and space them out as you like them. I spaced mine about an inch apart, starting about PA inches from each side of the clasp.

5. Take a your first charm and attach a correspondingly colored jump ring, so use a gold charm with gold jump ring. Use your flat-nose pliers to twist the jump ring open. While your jump ring is open, attach it to the bracelet in the spot you chose for it. Never, ever pull a jump ring apart, or you’ll ruin the shape of the jump ring. Gently twist the jump ring open with your flat-nose pliers, attach your pieces, and then twist it back into place.

6. Repeat Step 5 until all the charms are connected.

The 1960s gave birth to one unlikely icon, the hippie. You could get a feel for the 1960s by using peace symbols, big flowers, or zodiac symbols. I chose to go with the sun to bring out the feel of the dawning of the age of Aquarius.

Tools and Materials

Flat-nose pliers Round-nose pliers Wire cutters

6 1.5-inch gold-tone headpins

18 3mm turquoise-colored glass beads

12 4mm lime green-colored glass beads

2 gold-toned earhooks

2 gold-toned sun jewelry components, each with one hole at the top, three holes at the bottom

1. String beads on a headpin, alternating between turquoise and green, starting and stopping with turquoise. Set aside.

2. Repeat with remaining 5 headpins and beads.

3. Take 1 beaded headpin and, using your flat-nose and round-nose pliers, begin forming an eye loop. Before completely closing it, attach it to 1 sun component from one of the bottom holes. Repeat twice more to complete 1 component.

4. Repeat Step 3 with the second sun component.

5. Using your round-nose pliers, gently open the earhook loop. Slide the top hole of the sun component onto the earhook loop. Gently reclose it.

6. Repeat Step 5 to complete the second earring.

1970s-Inspired Psimple Psychedelic Earrings

In the 1970s, everything was groovy. Much of the jewelry designed in the ’70s emphasized free form metals and glass. The focus was on shapes, but slightly warped shapes. You didn’t see the geometric patterns of circles and squares of the 1960s. The 1970s morphed that circle somewhere between an oval and a square. Everything was slightly off-center or off kilter. In the spirit of the 1970s, enjoy the groovy iridescent flowers of these far-out earrings, man.

Tools and Materials

Flat-nose pliers

Round-nose pliers

2 sterling silver stack-a-bead earring findings

2 25mm flat teardrop beads with iridescent psychedelic flowers, drilled top to bottom

2 6mm liquid silver tubes

2 6mm round faceted crystal, light green and purple

1. Straighten 1 stack-a-bead finding. Start working it with your fingers. Then, use your flat-nose pliers, as needed.

2. Slip on beads in the following order: flat teardrop bead, tube bead, crystal.

3. Reshape the earwire. I use my thumb to round out the big loop that rests in your ear. Then I use my round-nose pliers to create a smaller bend at the end of the bead.

Repeat for the second earrings.

If you want more inspiration for recreate the designs of the past, take a look at Creating Your Own Antique Jewelry: Taking Inspiration From Great Museums Around The World by Cris Dupouy. He gives you ideas on how to create beautiful pins, pendants, and other pieces in the style of past eras, primarily with polymer clay.

Tapping into ancient inspirations from Rome and Greece

In ancient times, jewelry was most often worn by women, although a man may have worn a single ring. And, as in many societies, the richer you were, the more jewelry you wore. Sometimes, stones and amulets were chosen to protect the wearer from everything from drunkenness (amethyst) to an invading enemy (onyx). Consider some jewelry that may have been worn then:

• Arm bands
• Bangle bracelets
• Cuff bracelets
• Hoop earrings
• Fibula (brooch pin)
• Large single stone rings
• Shorter beaded necklaces with and without pendants

If you want to recreate the feel of an era, choose a piece that someone may have worn during that time.

Several motifs, or recurring themes, make an appearance in ancient jewelry design, including a few on this list:

• Reminders of daily life, like pitchers and urns Animals, like lions and snakes
• Scrollwork

• Serpentine lines
• Waves

For a true feel of a particular time and place, use materials that would have been commonly used during the era you’re trying to mimic. Material for the Greeks and Romans include:

• Bronze

• Precious metals, like gold and silver
• Hammered metals
• Semi-precious gems like garnet, carnelian, amethyst, emerald, and pearls

Stones were often carved in relief, meaning that parts of the stone were removed to leave a particular image in the stone. The images were often of people, portraits, and profiles. They may have depicted the ruler who held the wearer’s allegiance, the god or goddess beloved by the wearer, or a scene of importance, like a betrothal.

Exploring Ancient Egyptian styling

Many Ancient Egyptians were lovers of jewelry. Most of their jewelry was truly symbolic, not just simple decoration. The pieces worn by an individual conveyed the wearer’s status in the community and served as an identifier in the afterlife. Ancient Egyptians were the first known wearers of charm bracelets, designed to identify their achievements, activities, professions, and families.

Common Ancient Egyptian motifs include:

• Pharaonic images, like the profile of Nefertiti, or a sarcophagus.
• Various gods and goddesses, including Isis, Horus, and Anubis.
• Scarabs, 3-D carvings of a dung beetle symbolizing creation, power, and rebirth.
• Ankhs, the ancient symbol of life.

Hieroglyphics, ancient Egyptian picture writing.

Ancient Egyptians probably wore more gold than silver, because gold was much more available to them at that time. They loved deep blue lapis lazuli, rich turquoise, and black onyx. They often wore strands of long stone tube beads paired with monotone flat rounds. In this case, the shape, rather than the color, provided the contrast. They loved individual inlaid stones, with a blending of their favorite colors.

Pair Egyptian motifs with their colored stones for an Ancient Egyptian- inspired piece.

Unless you’re a whiz with a glue gun, I don’t recommend that you use it on this project. It seems like it would be a good idea, but it has three problems:

• The glue dries too fast to work the fringe onto the shade correctly.
• The glue dries lumpy because it’s too hot to smooth as you go.
• Glue guns are also famous for giving you burnt fingers!

Tools and Materials

Flexible tape measure

Scissors

36-inches of beaded fringe (I used fringe made with pastel-colored seed beads)

1 10-inch diameter lampshade (I used a cute lavender one to coordinate with my pastel beaded fringe.)

Goop adhesive (I use this adhesive because it’s great for just about everything and it dries pretty flat. Use a different adhesive if you prefer and follow the package directions.)

Run your fringe along the inside of the lampshade. Decide where you want to attach the fringe. I like to attach mine so that the top edge of the bead strands hits right at the bottom of the shade.

Run a strand of Goop along the inside edge of the lampshade at the point where you want the fringe to hang. Let the Goop cure for 2 minutes. (Curing just means allowing the adhesive to rest and begin to start working.)

Begin applying the ribbon of the fringe to the Goop along the edge. Press the ribbon to make full contact with the lampshade.

Continue applying the fringe to the adhesive until you meet the start of your fringe. Trim the ribbon at the place where both ends meet. Apply a little dab of adhesive to the starting ribbon, and then press the ending ribbon on top of it.

Cut the ribbon a little longer than necessary. After you glue the ribbon down, you can always go back and trim it up.

Allow the lampshade to rest upside down for 24 hours so that the adhesive cures completely. I also recommend arranging the fringe on the outside of the lampshade during curing so that the weight of the beads doesn’t pull against the ribbon.

Tools and Materials

• Cloth napkin or dishtowel
• Small bead scoop (optional)
• 4×4-inch wood picture frame
• Craft glue suitable for wood and glass, clear drying
• Approximately 2000 (20 grams) size 15/0 rocaille seed beads, assorted colors

1. Lay the napkin on top of your work surface. (At the end of the project, you’ll lift this up for easy bead cleanup.)
2. Remove the easel, mat, and glass (if necessary) from your picture frame. Set aside. Lay the frame flat, facing up on your napkin.
3. Cover the top of the frame with glue. Use the tip of the glue bottle to spread the glue around to thoroughly and evenly cover the top of the frame.
4. Pour seed beads slowly over your frame. Pick beads up from the workspace and reapply to the frame, as necessary to thoroughly cover the frame.
5. Tip the frame up to look inside the frame, next to where the glass will be. You may need to either apply glue here or apply extra beads. This step helps you completely cover the front of the frame. The fewer gaps, the better. But don’t worry if you see some glue. Because you’re using the clear drying variety, you won’t see it after it’s dry.
6. After you’re satisfied with the bead coverage on your frame, set it aside and let it cure overnight.
7. Don’t put the frame back together until it’s completely dry. You could accidentally glue the frame to the glass, ruining your beautiful new frame. Be patient: The results are worth it.
8. Lift your napkin up and carefully pour the leftover beads back into their container.

9. 

Tools and Materials

• Wire cutter
• Flat-nose pliers
• Round-nose pliers
• Memory wire shears (optional)
• 3 2-inch headpins, sterling silver
• 31/2-inch headpins, sterling silver
• 22 5mm round aventurine beads
• 26 6mm twisted square amethyst beads
• 3 12mm to 15mm gem nuggets, wrapped in silver cages, 2 loops attached
• 1/4 coil of bracelet size memory wire

1. Create the dangles first. On a two-inch headpin, slide beads in the following order: aventurine, amethyst, aventurine, amethyst, aventurine. Using your round-nose pliers, create a wrapping loop. Set aside.
2. Repeat Step 1 twice, to create a total of three dangles.
3. Slide 1 amethyst bead on a 1/2-inch headpin. With your flat-nose and round-nose pliers, begin to create an eye loop, but before closing the loop, slide it onto one loop of the malachite caged nugget.
4. Repeat Step 3 twice, to create a total of 3 dangles. When you make the dangle for the amethyst caged nugget, use an aventurine bead (instead of an amethyst) for contrast.
5. String your beads and dangles onto your memory wire coil in this order: amethyst, aventurine, amethyst, aventurine, amethyst, nugget dangle, amethyst, aventurine, amethyst, aventurine, amethyst, head- pin dangle. Repeat this pattern two more times, for a total of three.
6. Using your round-nose pliers, create a tight loop on one end of the memory wire. This step keeps your beads from sliding off. Slide the beads and dangles toward the loop to get rid of any slack. Trim off any excess memory wire with your memory wire shears or wire cutters, leaving about ‘A inch. Using your round-nose pliers, create a tight loop at the end of the memory wire.
7. Slide your new creation around the neck of your favorite vase for a beautiful display anytime.

Photo Wine Charms

Wine charms are those little beaded strands that hook around your stemmed glasses. They serve to identify your glass when several people have the same glass at the same party. Often, a set of charms will share a theme, like wine accessories, and each charm will have a different wine accessory charm (like a bottle opener, cluster of grapes, and so on) and a group of beads.

Truly personalize your wine charms by adding your own photo frames. Make one for each of your guests and include his or her picture in a charm. I made these awesome wine charms as a Mother’s Day gift for my mom. I put pictures of her grandkids in the frames, and she loved them.

Tools and Materials Round-nose pliers

6 18mm x 20mm picture frame charms

6 small photos to fit the frames

6 6-inch pieces of silver-colored 22- gauge wire

6 1-inch diameter beading hoops

6 sets of beads (depending on the size of the beads (3mm-6mm), you’ll need 14-18 per hoop, a total of about 3 inches)

Insert 1 photo in each frame. Using your round-nose pliers, begin to create a wrapping loop with 1 piece of wire. Before you close the loop, slip on the frame charm. Complete the loop. Create a second loop on the open end of the wire.

This step helps the frame lie flat on the base of the stemware.

Repeat with the remaining frames and pieces of wire. Set aside.

Slide half of one set of beads on a beading hoop. Add 1 photo frame component. Slide the last half of the same set of beads onto the beading hoop. The frame should hang in the middle of the hoop, surrounded by beads.

If you want to create a symmetrical design, lay one frame down on the bead board. Line up beads on each side of the frame to create your design.

Using your round-nose pliers, bend a small 90-degree angle at the end of the beading loop. Choose a different combination of beads for each charm to help you distinguish one charm from the other. I matched my bead sets to match the preferences of each grandkid. For example, I chose the colors of the baby’s nursery for her charm. The 4-year-old thinks she’s a pink princess, so her charm uses several shade of pink beads. You get the picture.

Ring-size memory wire is another great choice for creating wine charms. After you’ve added the beads and charm, either glue half-drilled beads to the ends of the coils or bend the end of the coil into loops with your round-nose pliers. Add dangles to the loops to create more details.

Wire and Bead Scroll Photo Holder

This whimsical desk accessory is great for displaying your favorite snapshots. Add more scrolls to display more photographs. Experiment with different colors and combinations.

Tools and Materials Round-nose pliers

3 24-inch pieces 16-gauge green floral and craft wire

8 5mm doughnut beads, drilled front to back, lavender

5 6mm oval beads, green 2 2mm round beads, blue

2 ounces of polymer clay (1 used lilac pearl and silver mixed together)

Hypo-cement

Start by bending 1 piece of wire. Use your round-nose pliers to start a scroll design. Continue to turn the scroll with your fingers. Create a rough, non-sym‑metrical scroll with at least five or six concentric (sort of) loops. The loops will hold your photo up. Measure down roughly 1 inch from the bottom of your large scroll. Make a loop de loop with your round-nose pliers.

Slide beads on the wire from the bottom up in the following order: lavender, green, lavender.

Create another loop de loop under the group of beads to secure them on the wire. Set aside.

Repeat the process with the remaining wire and beads. Vary the number of beads and the number of loop de loops to create visual interest in your piece. Set aside.

Condition your polymer clay. Roll your clay into a ball. Slam it flat on your work surface to give it a flat bottom. Shape the top as you like. Mine is sort of a half-circle, but it definitely looks handmade.

Insert your wire and bead components into the clay lump. Remove the wires, but keep the holes. (You want to harden your clay with the holes already in place.)

Bake the clay according to package directions. Allow it to cool completely.

Squirt a dab of Hypo-cement into one hole and insert your wire. Repeat with the other wires and holes. Allow your piece to set for about an hour.

If necessary, gently arrange the wires, as you prefer.

Jellyroll cane

A jellyroll is the most basic cane you can make. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Roll clay to a sheet of uniformed thickness approximately 1/16th of an inch. Repeat with a second color.

2. Place one sheet on top of the other. Trim the layered clay into an even rectangle.

3. Depending on how wide you want your beads, start rolling the beads from the narrower or wider edge. Rolling the clay from the wider edge gives you a narrower finished bead. Rolling the clay from the narrower edge gives you a wider finished bead. Gently squeeze the rod to remove air bubbles. Reduce (or decrease the diameter and increase the length of) the cane by gently rolling it. Roll it until you get it to the desired width.

4. Chill the cane slightly in the refrigerator, approximately 15 to 20 minutes, to firm up the clay for cutting.

6. Cut the cane crosswise with a thin blade to reveal your beautiful pattern.

For best results use a very sharp, very thin blade to cut the slices for your beads. Many clay companies make their own cutting blades for this very reason. Other clay cutting options include a razor blade, boning knife, fishing line, or piano wire. Experiment and find what works for you.

If you want to string the beads, pierce holes in them with a toothpick. You can choose to add wire hooks to the beads to create earrings or pendants later. An eyepin is an ideal addition to your beads at this point. Just poke it where you want it, bend a loop with your round- nose pliers, and you have a little loop to hang your bead later.

8. Bake clay according to packaged directions in an oven safe glass container.

9. Let the beads cool before stringing. Basic speckle cane

Try this project to perfect your cane-making technique. The pattern is fairly random, so you don’t need to stress over making it look perfect. The beauty of this cane is in the handmade, colorful feel of the finished project. Choose three complimentary colors for this one. I chose green, purple, and yellow.

Condition the same amount of each color of clay separately. Roll each piece into a log.

For best results, clean your hands and workspace between working with each color to keep the colors from blending together. Baby wipes are a great choice for this kind of quick cleanup.

Place the 3 logs close together. Gently squeeze them together. Roll the 3 logs gently in order to form them into a single bundle, which is now the new cane you work with to complete this project.

Reduce the size of the diameter of the cane, until the length is approximately 9 inches (so your cane will get thinner and longer). Cut the cane into three equal parts.

Place the 3 cane sections next to each other. Gently squeeze them together. Roll the three sections into a single bundle again to form a new cane. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until your cane is as speckled as you want it.