Jewelry Lovers

Austria and the Wiener Werkstätte

In Austria, the search for a new style at the beginning of the century was led by Josef Hoffman and key members of the Succession group, founded in 1897. The main objective of this group of Viennese artists and designers was to improve the status of the decorative arts. Members of the group were employed as teachers in the Vienna Museum of Applied Arts from 1899. A breakaway faction, including the painters Gustav Klimt, Olbrich, Moser and Hoffman, established the Wiener Werkstätte in 1903-4. This was a small colony of artists who wished to promote the individual creativity of the designer, in keeping with the beliefs of Van der Velde. They sought to move away from the dogma of mass- production extolled by German theorists and American industrialists. Their principles were closely allied to the British Arts and Crafts, and their designs had their stylistic roots in German Jugendstijl and French Art Nouveau.

Folk art in Scandinavia

During these years other European countries either reproduced the fashionable designs stemming from France, or they returned to their own indigenous folk arts for inspiration, looking for a naturalistic style to soften the edge of the new modernity. The Nordic countries of Sweden, Denmark, Finland and Norway drew on the idealized democratic principles of craft production, searching for an aesthetic formula that was in keeping with their cultural traditions. Nevertheless, they recognized the need to invite industrial sponsorship, not only to maintain links with the market place, but also to provide financial support for the designers. They hoped this would lead eventually to a greater dissemination of well-made goods. Some of the best examples of Scandinavian jewelry design of this period include the work of the Danish silversmith, Georg Jensen.

Rene Lalique

Renee Lalique, a Parisian goldsmith and jeweler, was trained by the goldsmith Louis Aucoc and travelled to England in the 1880s to study silversmithing. He was to have an important influence on European Art Nouveau design in the first decade of the twentieth century. He exploited themes that characterized the flamboyance of La Belle Epoque, not only in his use of exotic materials, but also though the use of insect forms such as dragonfly and lizard. These creations were inspired by the organic features of plant life, situated in a utopian, fantasy world that crossed the barrier between nineteenth-century historicism and the new forms developing from twentieth-century technology.

Like other designers working during this period, Lalique was mainly concerned with the reconciliation between the ideals of beauty and utility. His jewelry is charged with movement and emotional tension achieved with the imaginative juxtaposing of the differing qualities of glass, plique-a-jour enamelling, chrysophrase and gold materials.

Sinuous curves combine in a unified and rythmic whole. This results in an exciting inter-play between wearer and form. Sarah Bernhardt is perhaps one of the best known patrons of Lalique’s work. It is significant that his jewelry, as a part of the decorative arts, stresses the individuality of the artist-craftsman at a time when many designers were coming to terms with exploiting and conforming to the joint pressures of manufacturing practice and collective thought.

Lalique’s technical virtuosity and versatility is offset by the impact of colour and pagan symbolism. Plant and insect forms were combined as a part of the decoration and function. Several different objects were drawn together by the forcefulness of his style. Lalique utilized a delicate and luxurious vocabulary which typifies the artistic and inventive nature of French Art Nouveau.

Liberty & Co.

In 1875, Arthur Lasenby Liberty set up a shop in London, initially specializing in the importing and retailing of Oriental goods from India and Japan. Designers from the Arts and Crafts movement were employed to create innumerable products, from furniture and textiles to ceramics and silverware. The latter category was sold under the labels of ‘Cymric’ and ‘Tudric’ wares from the 1890s. These included a large collection of jewelry pieces designed and manufactured by individuals such as Jessie King, Archibald Knox, Rex Silver, Georgina and Arthur Gaskin, and Oliver Baker.

They were initially made by hand, although by the end of the nineteenth century silverware and jewelry were increasingly manufactured by machine and contracted out to various firms such as Haselers of Birmingham. They included brooches, pendants, belt clasps and necklaces. Few of these designs were intended for ceremonial or other formal occasions, contrasting with the importance attached to silver plate in the silversmithing, jewelry and allied trades.

These designers favoured the use of semi-precious stones such as peridot, olivine, tourmaline, moonstone and chrysoprase. In a few examples, precious stones such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, fine pearls and diamonds were used. This was partly because of cost, but also because individual creativity took precedence over conforming to traditional aesthetic practices. Other materials were also popular and often utilized in varying combinations, such as glass and ceramic.

The market for such jewels was often limited to a more ‘enlightened’ and artistic clientele who appreciated the unusual aesthetic and moralistic qualities associated with dress reform in the late nineteenth century. Dress reform was concerned with the restricting nature of Victorian costume. In Britain, the Rational Dress Society was established in the 1870s. It campaigned against the wearing of corsets and preferred the adoption of simpler and looser garments that could be adorned with a large and eye-catching piece of jewelry, for example a robe clasp. There were important parallel developments in the United States with the foundation of the American Free Dress League.

More about: Stylish Jewelries, Glance of Finest Jewelries in the world

• The Beautiful Fine Jewelries and Fashion Jewelries for You
• Stylish Jewelries, Glance of Finest Jewelries in the world continue...
• Pearl Jewellery
• Other Precious Gemstones
• Buying Pearls
• Synthetic Gemstones continue...
• Synthetic Gemstones
• Your Jewelry Guide: Pearl
• How to evaluate diamonds Part 5
• Your Jewelry Guide: Freshwater pearls

• An UNIQUE way to express your LOVE, Unique Gifts, Ideas and Advice ...
• Hair Loss Products Shampoo Vitamins Minoxidil (50001)
• Discount Beach Towel, Clearance Bathroom Shower Curtains ...
• MP3 Music Download, work with iPod and any MP3 Player, over 2 ...
• Directly Home Furniture | Discount Bedroom Furniture | Dining Room ...
• Stylish Maternity Clothes - Fashion House
• Replacement Coverage | Homeowners Blog
• Iron Spark Guard | Kitchen Essential Blog
• Cat Costume Happy Pets
• Tap Water | Kitchen Essential Blog