Jewelry Lovers

To fix a jump ring

When your stone is firmly secured to its bell cap and the glue has thoroughly dried, open wide a suitable jump ring by twisting both ends of the ring sideways with two pairs of jewelry pliers. Now hook one end of the ring through the eyelet of the bell cap and, if it is to be hung on a loop or link (for an ear-ring, chain bracelet or necklet), thread the other end over the loop or through the link. Then close the jump ring by pinching together firmly with the pliers.

Pad mounts

A large number of ring, brooch, pendant, cufflink, tie pin and ear-ring findings incorporate a pad or pads on which a stone or stones are able to be bonded.

Flat plain pads are probably the easiest for the beginner to use. This is the finding to choose for a stone that has a flat base, and an upper surface (the only part that will show in the completed piece of jewelry) that is attractive and interestingly shaped. Flat pads can be round, oval, square, oblong or triangular, and are available in a good choice of sizes.

It is always best to choose a pad that is as big as possible as this will give your stone maximum support, but remember that the pad must be just small enough to be completely concealed by the stone — or the results will be unsightly.

Large flat pads can be used for mounting a single stone or several smaller ones. Using smaller stones is more tricky because it involves finding stones that harmonize in colour and shape. It also requires considerable care to ensure that the entire area of the pad will be covered. Moreover, because of their size, very small stones or chippings are difficult to handle — but this problem can be minimized by using tweezers or jewelry pliers when applying adhesive and seating the stones into their correct positions.

Flat pads with raised edges. Some flat pads — usually round or oval in shape — have raised edges or rims. This edge, which can be plain or decorated, rises at a 90° angle from the pads. These pads are ideal for use with preformed stones and it is really preferable to reserve their use for these stones. Like all pad mounts they can be used for the more irregular shapes of tumbled and polished stones — but be warned that considerable perseverance and luck are needed to search out a suitable candidate stone. It must be flat based and fit precisely into the area. They can also be used for chippings.

Cup pads. Again you will have to take care to find a suitable stone but, because the edge rises gently at approximately 135° from the pad, the chances of finding a tumbled stone that fits well are considerably higher.

Concave pads These are dished in varying depths, shapes and sizes to accommodate stones with gently rounded bases. Again, it is best to choose a pad which is hidden by your stone but gives it maximum support. Small round filigree concave pads are sometimes called flower pads. They are so decorative that it doesn’t matter if the stones fail to completely conceal the pads.

Multi-pads Some findings, notably brooches and rings, incorporate several pads. Often these consist of one large pad surrounded by several smaller pads. Or, sometimes, there are several pads of the same size. These are challenging for the jewelry maker intent on using his own tumbled stones because it takes time and patience to assemble stones that make a really attractive set — matching in size and colour and pattern. Moreover, many multi- pads are round or oval in shape and have raised edges — and these should definitely be reserved for use with preformed stones only.

Claw settings

A claw setting is really a cross between a pad mount and a bell cap. It has a central pad onto which part of the stone is bonded, and claws or prongs which can be adjusted to close around the stone and hold it in position. A claw setting is the most versatile of the three basic findings, and it can be used for a stone of almost any shape providing the stone has a small flattish area ,which can be bonded onto the pad. It is very popular setting for rings, brooches and pendants, and increasingly used for cufflink findings and other articles of jewelry too.

How to fit a claw mount Choose a mount of size and style compatible with your stone. Place the stone, on it, moving it around until you find the best position. If the stone has any definite bumps, it may be necessary to place each of the bumps between two claws to give a firm grip. Bend the claws gently around the stones with your fingers. Remove the stone and shape each Claw with jewelry pliers, then replace the stone and complete the placement of the claws so that the stone is held in a fairly firm grip. The stone can now be removed again, and the job of cleaning and bonding can begin. Remember that claws must be closely pressed against the stone or they will tend to catch in clothing.

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Findings for tumbled stones part 2